Provence Beyond Arles, Part One

 

The countryside surrounding Arles offers a captivating blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage. Small villages perch atop the hillsides, each echoing stories of times past through their narrow cobblestone streets. 

Farmsteads nestle in verdant valleys, surrounded by the silvery arms of olive groves and terraced vineyards, promising a bounty of wine.

Close to Arles lies the quaint commune of Les Baux-de-Provence. While renowned for its beauty, the main attraction is the medieval fortress perched high on a rocky outcrop in the Alpilles. 

Covering over 12 acres, the castle offers a spectacular view. The village lends its name to bauxite, an aluminum ore discovered nearby.

The region is rich in Roman ruins, often glimpsed from the countryside roads. Glanum is a notable site, inhabited since 6th or 7th century BCE. Originally a Celtic shrine, it later became a Roman settlement boasting well-preserved buildings with mosaic-adorned floors.

Provencal cuisine delights with aromatic dishes cooked in olive oil, featuring onions, garlic, native herbs, tomatoes, saffron, and even dried orange peel. One iconic dish, Bouillabaisse, originated in Marseille, where fishermen created a flavorful fish soup. A visit to Marseille also led us to the bustling garlic market, where vendors sell their wares from stalls or the backs of their vehicles.

From 1309 to 1376, Avignon served as the seat of the papacy, a result of conflicts between Philip IV of France and the papacy. The period saw seven successive popes in Avignon, leaving a rich historical legacy. Today, Avignon is famed for its Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine and immortalized in the French children's song "Sur le Pont d'Avignon".

Built between 1177 and 1185, the Saint-Bénezet Bridge, known as “Pont d'Avignon”, originally consisted of 22 arches connecting Avignon Extensive damge from war and flooding of the Rhône mean that only 4 arches remain today.