Provence Beyond Arles, Part Two

 A bit further from Arles is the Verdon Gorge, a limestone canyon 15 miles long carved into the countryside by the Verdon River. Its sheer walls plunge a half a mile from the rim to the river. A local there told us that every year numerous people stand on the rim and get vertigo and fall to their deaths. 

 

There are several lakes in the canyon where you can rent various kinds of boats. When I took pictures of sailboats there, I never dreamt that someday I'd own a sailboat.

Getting there takes you through Aix-en-Provence, a picturesque town with fountains and beautiful architecture. Fountains anchor the fashionable Cours Marabeau, a tree lined boulevard. Here you can rest at a comfortable café and look at the magnificent façades, courtyards and fanciful entryways of historic mansions.

  

West of Arles is a city that has ties to people all over the world, Nîmes. “What kind of ties?” you ask. Linguistic ties. Weavers in Nîmes produced a sturdy twill fabric known as “serge de Nîmes,” denim, in other words. Blue jeans the world over are made from denim. Nîmes, nestled in the southern part of France, is a city steeped in historical richness. Called Nenmausus by the Romans, it was a regional capitol and home to 50,000 to 60,000 people.

Like so many Roman cities, Nîmes had a huge Amphitheatre that could seat24,000 spectators who came to watch gladiators fight each other and ferocious animals. The ancient ways continue during the Feria de Nîmes when toreadors battle with bulls. 50,000 people consume a great deal of water and Nîmes got its water from a spring 30 miles away. 8 million gallons of water every day flowed over the Pont du Gard. This 3 level bridge was built in the first century and in addition to carrying water it also provided a means to cross the Gard River. At 160 feet tall, it is the tallest of Roman aqueduct/bridges.

Provence is a beautiful part of France and we were so happy to experience it on our first trip outside of Paris.

 

Provence Beyond Arles, Part One

 

The countryside surrounding Arles offers a captivating blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage. Small villages perch atop the hillsides, each echoing stories of times past through their narrow cobblestone streets. 

Farmsteads nestle in verdant valleys, surrounded by the silvery arms of olive groves and terraced vineyards, promising a bounty of wine.

Close to Arles lies the quaint commune of Les Baux-de-Provence. While renowned for its beauty, the main attraction is the medieval fortress perched high on a rocky outcrop in the Alpilles. 

Covering over 12 acres, the castle offers a spectacular view. The village lends its name to bauxite, an aluminum ore discovered nearby.

The region is rich in Roman ruins, often glimpsed from the countryside roads. Glanum is a notable site, inhabited since 6th or 7th century BCE. Originally a Celtic shrine, it later became a Roman settlement boasting well-preserved buildings with mosaic-adorned floors.

Provencal cuisine delights with aromatic dishes cooked in olive oil, featuring onions, garlic, native herbs, tomatoes, saffron, and even dried orange peel. One iconic dish, Bouillabaisse, originated in Marseille, where fishermen created a flavorful fish soup. A visit to Marseille also led us to the bustling garlic market, where vendors sell their wares from stalls or the backs of their vehicles.

From 1309 to 1376, Avignon served as the seat of the papacy, a result of conflicts between Philip IV of France and the papacy. The period saw seven successive popes in Avignon, leaving a rich historical legacy. Today, Avignon is famed for its Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine and immortalized in the French children's song "Sur le Pont d'Avignon".

Built between 1177 and 1185, the Saint-Bénezet Bridge, known as “Pont d'Avignon”, originally consisted of 22 arches connecting Avignon Extensive damge from war and flooding of the Rhône mean that only 4 arches remain today. 

In the Land of Oc

We left Carcassonne and the Pyrénées and headed East to the Camargue and Provence. We landed in Arles which became our pied à terre for the next couple of weeks. The Romans called the city "Arelate" from the Gaulish name which translates to "By the marsh," referring to the marshlands of the Camargue which surround the city. Arles, of course, is where Van Gogh spent a lot of time at the end of his life. His time there is considered the most prolific of his life. During 12 months he produced an incredible 187 paintings. Some of his most famous paintings were done there; “Starry Night”, “Café Terrace”, “The Bridge in Arles”. One canvas featured the Coliseum.

When we were there, the coliseum was not as crowded as when Van Gogh painted it. 

During Roman times, the coliseum could seat 20,000 people. During the middle ages, it was transformed into a fortress for protection and people built houses and a chapel there. 

The coliseum is still used for concerts and bull fighting-yes, bullfighting is not limited to Spain.

Public parks are an important part of every French city. Van Gogh painted the entrance to the public park in Arles. 

It's pretty much the same today.

Arles was an important city in the Roman empire. Strategically located on the southern Rhône it became an important economic, political and cultural center. The 4^th century poet Ausonius called it “The Rome of the Gauls.”  The city is the site of numerous Roman structures.

In addition to the coliseum, Arles boasted a 10,000 seat amphitheater. Sadly, only two pillars remain standing from this structure, Les Deux Veuves (The Two Widows).

When you stroll through European towns, one delightful feature that catches your eye is the abundance of window boxes. These charming containers grace the facades of buildings, adding color, texture, and vibrancy to the urban landscape.

 

                                                

While supermarkets and convenience stores have become widespread in urban areas, there is still demand for specialized and high-quality products that are often found in butcher shops and produce markets. Consumers may prefer the personalized service, expertise, and freshness that these establishments can provide. Additionally, some people prioritize supporting local farmers and businesses, which can be facilitated through these smaller, more specialized shops. In France, where cuisine occupies a central place in the culture, these small shops offer higher quality goods.

Place de la Republique in the center of town is dominated by an obelisk from the 4th century. It was erected by the emperor Constantine II as part of the Roman circus. After the circus fell into disuse, the obelisk toppled in the 6th century and was forgotten. It was rediscovered in the 14th century and re-erected on top of a pedestal on March 26, 1676. A fountain was added to the pedestal in the 19th century.