He said,
Since our last post, Al has left the boat and returned. He left shortly after we got back from Martinique. While he was gone, we got together with folks we had met at Rodney Bay. We invited Sue and Norman from Clara one night and Peter and Pat another night. They, of course, reciprocated. Sue and Norman have been coming to Rodney Bay for 18 years. She is English and he is Canadian, from Toronto. Both of them have done several transatlantic crossings. Norman has done two, single-handed in a 26 foot boat. Sue has done umpteen, both as skipper and as crew. On one crossing, she was on Breeze Away, the first St Lucian boat to participate in the ARC. The ARC is the Atlantic Race for Cruisers. The race departs the Canary Islands and finishes at Rodney Bay, St Lucia. It’s a big deal, 250 boats. Some people enter because they want to win, others simply because they want to experience the camaraderie. Sue and Norman have a busy social life when they are on the island, between golf and dinner parties and the like, Sue is very involved in charity projects which benefit the children of St Lucia.
Pat and Peter are on Aku Tiki, a 35 foot C & C, a Canadian boat. Pat is from Jamaica and Peter escaped East Germany (sneaking over the border at night ) before trekking around Europe as a young man. They met at the YMCA! Things were different 50 years ago. The YMCA was a safe and cheap place for a young man to stay when traveling. It sponsored social events and Peter and Pat met at a YMCA dance. At any rate, they have been coming to St Lucia for 14 years. They leave their boat there during hurricane season and spend several months a year on the boat. They met Sue and Norman years ago in Trinidad.
A couple of days before Al returned to the boat (he was gone for two weeks), other friends of ours, Lee and Sherry aboard the catamaran Alesto II, arrived at Rodney Bay. Peter went to college with Sherry. We met anew online on a sailing forum. Small world. At any rate, we saw Lee and Sherry last year in the Bahamas where Lee built a “lookee” bucket for Claudia. A “lookee” bucket is a 5 gallon bucket with a clear plastic bottom. It makes it possible to see under water without leaving the dinghy. It was nice to see them again. One of the nicest things about cruising is the people you meet and meet again and again.
When Al returned to St Lucia, we picked him up at the airport—an hour and a half away from Rodney Bay—driving on the left side of the road in a car with the steering wheel on the right side! When we came through Castries, the local fishermen had set up shop on the side of the road. They go out in their tiny boats at 4AM, somewhere between St Lucia and Martinique. When they return, they sell their catch on the side of the road. The tables are covered with Tuna, Red Snapper, Mahi-Mahi and several other lesser fish. We bought a small tuna for ceviche (recipe appears below), a beautiful red snapper (filleted before our eyes) for pan frying and a dozen flying fish. The flying fish are fantastic and apparently a local favorite. The fellow that cleaned them for us was amazing. He never laid them on the table while he manipulated his knife to split them and to remove the fins and bones. How he managed to keep all ten fingers is miraculous. At any rate, we seasoned the flying fish with salt and pepper, dusted them with flour and fried them in butter. A bit of lime juice and beurre noire finished them off.
We had hoped that the strike on Martinique would be over by the time that Al returned to the boat so we could return to the island. Alas, it was not to be. The back-up plan was to go down the coast of St Lucia to Marigot Bay and then to go to Soufrière and the Pitons to do some snorkeling. The weather was not cooperative. Winds in excess of 25 knots and heavy seas intervened, so we stayed put at Rodney Bay. The upside to this was that we ate at a couple of really fine restaurants. The Edge, just a short dinghy ride away—tie up at their dock, and for C’s birthday, Chic.
Since we spent a lot of time in Castries, we're posting several pix from the market and downtown Castries. It's really not a picturesque place, but it is very busy. Once when we were there, five cruise ships were in harbor. Some of the people from the cruise ships arrange for island tours and the like. Others wander around downtown Castries and go home to say they have seen St Lucia. Castries is very much like St John's, Antigua and Roseau, Dominica (Domineeca, remember!) and even a bit like Nassau, Bahamas. A bit run down, a little dirty, modernity mingled with the old, and very busy and very exciting.
She said,
Left strike-torn Martinique. Left, I might add, without French cheese, olives or sausage!!! Quel dommage!!! And quite a ride back to St. Lucia!!! “They” enjoyed it. I didn’t . So I guess that says I’m not a sailor! The wind was such that the jib got torn to shreds. It was just about dark as we got into Rodney Bay so we anchored out in the harbour. Came back to our slip the next day.
Al went state side. We had the A/C fixed. Dinked for groceries – no one had plain yoghurt (which we like with our curry)!! Very windy in squalls – 29 knts.
Did a lot of ‘socializing’ with new cruiser friends we met at dock. Our former neighbors from Dock C Sue and Norman (aboard s/v Clara) invited us for drinks. They have been based in St. Lucia for the past 14 years. She is very active in St. Lucia organizations doing for local kids. We have a lovely St. Lucian calendar the proceeds from which benefit local children’s funds. They also are instrumental in the local youth St. Lucia boating club. Norman has a fantastic music collection which he has organized and collated and he plays though his computer. On a subsequent visit, with the folks from s/v Silk Pajamas (Terry and Kristen) also aboard, Norman cranked up the party music and had everyone aboard dancing to the music. Our next door neighbors on Dock G (had 110 power) were Peter and Pat. (He’s from Germany, she from Jamaica – now from Toronto) Charming folk. We really liked them. Peter has had so many adventures, including escaping from East Germany in the dark of night. They invited us along to the famous Friday night “Jump Up” at Gros Islet” close by. What fun!! Our portside neighbors, aboard s/v Toot, were Marlene and Michael. They were there only briefly but I really enjoyed talking to her and most grand was able to trade books!!! Nice folks. Our earlier neighbors, s/v Sol y Mar, Pat and Dory were really nice friendly people. Our friends Lee and Sherry from the lovely Cat Alesto II arrived at Rodney Bay. (we had stayed in touch all winter following each other’s paths) It was really good to see them!! We had lunch with them and later met again and talked and talked about all of the adventures we both had!!! Super people!!
March 4th.
Al came back to Rodney Bay. He won’t be going back with us on the 18th as previously planned. His friend, Roy, is coming down on the 12th with his nephew and they will put the boat on the hard on the 17th and fly home on the 19th. We had hoped that the strike on Martinique would be over and we would go back, alas that was not to happen. So being flexible sailors we said ok we’ll take a hop down the coast of St. Lucia to Marigot Bay which James Mitchner described as “the most beautiful bay in the Caribbean” how could we go wrong? How, you ask? Weather. We waited and waited for a weather window for the trip south. No way, high winds and sizeable seas. So we just hung out and went to some excellent restaurants; notably The Edge just a dinghy ride away and for a special treat (for C’s birthday, thank you Al) to Chic !!!
Next day our second best sight was Lovely Lucette, our 110# wonderful Great Pyrenees.
Ok, just Mom talking. But truly can’t wait to see him! So, we are home! I want to thank all our family (especially my cousin, Walter from Alberta, Canada) and friends (esp.Kathy Jeidy, stateside) for keeping in touch even just a hi. Although we had a wonderful winter in tropical paradise, it does get just a bit lonesome so a word or two from home is always welcome after 3 ½ months away. And thank you to our neighbors, Martha and her son Josh for checking on the house while we were away. Thanks to everyone.
