ELEPHANTS ON THE SEA?

Let’s see, where shall we get stuck this time? It seems that we get one or two good days for travel then a week or more when we have to stay put. I must say that I’ve been stuck worse places than Spanish Wells, Bahamas. I’ve seen the sea full of sheep—whitecaps everywhere. I have yet to see the elephants and really don’t want to.

We haven’t seen the rain and clouds that make up the big storm that hit the East Coast and drifted out into the Atlantic. We have, however, felt its impact. It kicked up huge swells that make their way down to the Bahamas. We want to head to the Abacos, 60 miles north of here. While the swells present very little problem on the open ocean, they wreak havoc when they meet the shallow cuts in the Abacos. The swells go from water that is thousands of feet deep to narrow cuts between the islands where the water is only about 20 feet deep. When that happens, there is only one way for the swells to go—up. They rise up in huge, breaking, elephantine mounds of water that can toss a boat onto the rocks in the narrow cuts.

So, we’ll spend a few more days at Spanish Wells. This tiny island off the north coast of Eleuthera was settled by loyalists who fled the US after the Revolution. The community is very industrious and it shows. The homes are well-kept and the streets are clean. There is color everywhere.

Alligators in the Bahamas?

A fast ferry takes you to quaint Dunmore Town on Harbour Island. The town is also well-kept and has become a tourist destination. It has a long history going back 250 years or so. While Spanish Wells is a Caribbean version of South Florida, Dunmore Town more closely resembles 18th century New England. The long pink sand beach and gentle Atlantic water are an invitation to sunbathe and swim.

No visit to any Bahamian locale is complete without sampling the conch salad. Marty on Harbour Island puts on a good show and whips up a very good conch salad. His personal touch includes cucumber and celery.

Then, you have Buddha in Spanish Wells. He has eschewed lime juice altogether and uses fresh squeezed OJ instead. His use of grated cabbage was a complete surprise and gave the conch salad a sweet crunch.

Both saladiers do a great job of mincing the conch into fine dice. That is very necessary since conch is quite tough. I’m beginning to think that I should abandon my quest for “the best conch salad” in the islands. There are just too many good ones and too many unique ones.

How does one kill time when stuck in a place like Spanish Wells? Cruisers are very social critters and find ways to get together.

Never accuse them of not knowing how to put on a good spread.

Then, there is rum to taste.

Birthdays to celebrate.

Beaches to walk.

Silly games to play.

And, of course, we salute the setting of the sun by blowing the conch horn.

The conch blowing champ is full of hot air!