SEMANA SANTA

Our trip from Aguascalientes to Manzanillo took us through some of the most beautiful country anywhere.  We crossed broad plains surrounded by mountains.  We were in Mexico’s agricultural region.  We passed fields of agave from which tequila is made.  The plants take 10-12 years to reach the stage when their juices can be extracted and fermented.  

We saw horse and cattle ranches and hay fields to support them.  Large tracts of hot houses covered acres and acres of ground.  There was sugar cane, mango groves and coconut groves.  All of the produce from these and many other crops was sold at roadside fruit stands.  The road from Guadalajara passed over a perfectly flat dry lakebed that stretches for miles.  What?  Was that a hippopotamus?

The lake bed eventually gave way to the surrounding mountains.  As we approached Colima, twin volcanic peaks dominated the horizon for miles.  One of the volcanoes has long been dormant.  You can see smoke rising from the other which last erupted in 2015.

Kathleen’s brother Steve does not actually live in Manzanillo.  His house is located in nearby tiny El Naranjo. 

A dirt road leads up a steep hill to his house.  From his house, you look out past a mango tree loaded with mangoes, bougainvillea, other flowers and banana plants.  A yucca tree yields a delicious, huge fruit the size of a basketball.  No wonder he likes it here!  He has a menagerie that includes chickens (that haven’t learned to sleep until 10AM), rabbits, ducks, turtles and a nameless dog that we dubbed “Happy” because he was always smiling.  There were also uninvited members of the zoo.

Manzanillo is a large city and a major port.  It is also the location of several resorts. 

Mexicans love their coast.  The beaches are crowded every week-end.  Waterfront restaurants line the beaches.  Vendors with pushcarts sell everything from ice cream and juices to fresh fruit.  I enjoyed some of the best oysters I’ve ever had. 

I do need to say that even though I miss conch salad in the Bahamas I hardly noticed its absence.  You can get some of the best ceviche anywhere in Mexico.  On the coast’ it is absolutely fresh.  If you are ever in Manzanillo, you must try the ceviche at Mariscos al aliviane.  This is a tiny, streetside place with one tiny table.  They make a great ceviche with fish, scallops, shrimp and octopus.  It’s located across the street from the Hotel Playa de Santiago.

We were lucky enough to be in Mexico during Semana Santa (Holy Week).  Mexicans celebrate this in a big way.  It’s bigger than Christmas at home.  Maybe a lot like Mardi Gras in New Orleans.  The whole week is an excuse to party.  People flock to the beaches and other places of interest.  Whole empty fields turn into huge parking lots and temporary carnes asadas stands.

We drove to Comala near Colima on Palm Sunday.  Comala is a small community of whitewashed houses, cobblestone streets and a beautiful cathedral.  The inhabitants call it the “Magic Pueblo.”  A big fair filled the square in front of the church.

Nearby is the “Zona Magica.”  People come from all over to experience a unique phenomenon.  There is a stretch of road where it clearly looks like you are going downhill.  Yet, when you put the car in neutral, it rolls uphill!  Put a cylindrical object on the road and it to rolls uphill.  Pour water on the pavement and it flows uphill.  Plumbers beware!

We enjoyed a fine meal at a “bontanero.”  This was a humongous place.  There must have been at least 1000 people there. 

It’s a great place for families and big parties.  You pay for a bucket of beer, 8-10 bottles.  They start bringing out the food—a succession of tostadas, tortillas, quesadillas, tacos, all covered or stuffed with all kinds of savory meats, fish, shrimp, ceviche, avocadoes and pico de gallo.  The food keeps coming until you tell them to stop.  All the while, you are surrounded by merrymaking, mariachis, and laughter.  All this for the price of a few beers and soft drinks!  We were accompanied by Steve, his friend Liliana, her son and daughter, her friend Claudia and her son.  There were 8 of us.  The meal totaled the equivalent of $60.00 US, that included the tip. We had a great time!.

One other thing, even though we aren't in the Bahamas this winter, we can still enjoy them!  And, like the Bahamians, Mexicans have a great sense of humor.