We return to France

 After 27 years, we returned to France during Spring break. Unlike previous trips to France, we didn't stop in Paris. Rather, we connected there to a flight south to Marseille with plans to use France’s second city as a pied à terre. On our first day, a Sunday, we struggled to find a restaurant near our hotel, so we decided to dine at the hotel’s own restaurant. To our surprise, the menu offered only two options: steak frites or andouillette frites. Not in the mood for steak, we opted for the andouillette.

Now, I speak decent French and was familiar with andouille, the beloved Creole/Cajun sausage, so I assumed andouillette would be similar, just smaller sausages. When the dish arrived, the first bite was an unexpected shock! This was no spicy, smoked sausage like the ones from Louisiana. Instead, it was sausage made from pig intestines—chitterlings! Having butchered pigs before, I know what their entrails smell like, and this sausage tasted exactly like that smell. At least the frites were good!

Anyway, we decided on the spur of the moment  (true to the spirit of Now or Never!) to push beyond Marseille and someone in the hotel recommended Cassis, a nearby town just east of Marseille. It’s a cute little fishing village whose harbor is lined with pastel-colored buildings and numerous restaurants.

It’s actually a vacation spot frequented by French people. The ruins of an ancient château look over the harbor filled with sailboats and fishing boats.

The region around Cassis is renowned for its and white wines and rosés. It was early Spring so the vines were just budding out.

We visited Clos Ste Magdeleine where we bought 1 case of white wine and ½ a case of rosé. 

When we think of the Mediterranean coast of Southern France, we often think of sun-swept beaches. The coastline around Cassis, while sporting beaches here and there, is not as friendly to sunbathing. 

We bought carry-on luggage in which we could pack the case and a half of wine that we bought at Clos Ste Magdeleine. The security agent at Charles de Gaulle jokingly suggested that one of the bottles was for him. This visit to France was way too short but it was great to be in France again. Our next rip would take us to a very different part of France.

 

A Farewell to Kings, Stones and History

Our grand tour was winding down, and we turned north towards Paris. 

A stop in Chartres offered a chance to marvel at its magnificent cathedral. Unlike most cathedrals with matching spires, Chartres boasts two unique towers, each reflecting a distinct era.

The squat, powerful north spire, nicknamed the "Old Tower," embodies Romanesque architecture with its simple, robust design. Construction began in the 12th century. In contrast, the south spire, or "New Tower," soars skyward in the High Gothic style. Added much later, in the 16th century, it's adorned with intricate sculptures and flourishes characteristic of the Gothic period. 

Stepping inside, the cathedral's magic unfolds further. Most of the stained glass miraculously retains its 13th-century brilliance.

Reaching Paris, we were greeted by its signature creamy stone buildings. Double-pitched Mansard roofs, punctuated by tall windows, defined the elegant streetscape. 

The Tuileries Garden, untouched by the modern glass pyramid, offered a haven of tranquility. Established by Catherine de Medici in 1564, its geometric design soothed the soul.

The beautiful architecture, charming cafés, and scenic spots like the Eiffel Tower give Paris its well-deserved name, "the city of Love."

As the sun dipped below the horizon, our French adventure drew to a close.

 A short stay in Paris, and then we were airborne, homeward bound to Chicago. It would be many years and before we'd return to this captivating country.

The Loire Valley, Part Two

The patronage of Francis I and Henry II contributed to the flourishing of the arts and culture in the Loire Valley during the Renaissance. Their support for architectural projects not only enhanced the beauty of the region but also solidified the Loire Valley's reputation as a center of artistic innovation and royal splendor. Located in the heart of the Loire Valley, the Château de Blois served as a royal residence for several French kings, including Francis I and Henry II. It underwent numerous expansions and renovations during their reigns, reflecting the evolving architectural styles of the time.

The château's architecture blends Gothic, Renaissance, and classical elements, making it a remarkable example of French royal architecture.

Like Chambord, one of the features of the château de Blois is its magnificent staircase. While it is not a double helix like the one at Chambord, the staircase at Château de Blois is a central feature of the François I Wing of the castle. Unlike Da Vinci’s double helix staircase at Chambord the staircase at Blois follows a more traditional spiral form. However, it is no less impressive in its design and craftsmanship. The staircase is adorned with intricate carvings, ornate balustrades, and decorative details, reflecting the artistic sensibilities of the Renaissance period. There are 74 other staircases serving 564 rooms, including, of course, the bedrooms of the king and queen.

While stone was used to construct the château wood was a necessary building material as well. Slate or tile may have been used to weatherproof the roof, wooden rafters were required to frame it. Wood was used, of course for paneling, doors and decorative features. Huge joists were needed to support the stone floors.

Entrance to the Francis I wing of the château tells us that the occupants are Francis by the grace of God King of France and Claudia Queen of France.

Henry, not be outdone by his father had to mark his presence with a logo featuring his initials along with "C" for his queen, Catherine de Medici.

Joan of Arc received a blessing from the Archbishop of Reims at Blois before setting out on her crusade to end the English attempt to rule France. Her victory in breaking the siege at Orléans was a momentous turnaround in the Hundred Years War.

Most of the châteaux in the valley like Cheverny are surrounded by acres of grass and low tech methods were and are used to keep the grounds looking neat.

While the major attraction of the Loire Valley is the grand and opulent châteaux if kings and nobility there are more humble abodes scattered throughout the region; some of which seem more inviting than the castles of the rich and mighty.

Predating the construction of many of the château the Poulignac castle rises majestically over the Loire on a basalt plateau near le Puy-en-Velay. It was constructed for the Poulignac family and enlarged in the 10^th and 11^th centuries.

 

On the outskirts of le Puy, 3 miles from the castle, a volcanic needle some 260 feet  high is crowned by a 10th–11th-century church, Saint-Michel-d’Aiguilhe, that was ingeniously designed to cover the irregular surface of the rock. 

Traveling in rural France offers lodging that departs from the customary hotel or resort. Cozy gîtes and auberges can be found nearly everywhere and provide a more intimate connection to the local culture. As a plus, many of them have on site restaurants that attract the local populace.

Located outside the confines of cities, they are surrounded by beautiful countryside.

 

The Loire Valley; Vacationland for the Rich and Mighty

 

We could have spent more time in Provence; there was certainly lots more to see and do. However, it was time to move on. So we left the scent of lavender and sun-kissed fields and headed North to the Loire Valley. When we think of the Loire Valley, we think of sumptuous châteaux and there is no shortage of them. Chenonceau is a particularly picturesque castle spanning the Cher River. It is known as the "Ladies' Château" since much of its history is tied to the women connected with it.

The châteaux of the Loire valley provide a lesson in French history. King Francis I seized the château as settlement for an unpaid debt. Upon his death, his son, Henry II gave it, not to his queen, Catherine de Medici, but to his mistress Diane de Poitiers. It was Diane who commissioned the construction of the arched bridge to connect both banks of the river.

Henry II died as the result of a jousting accident. It seems that the lance of his jousting opponent pierced his head gear and he suffered a massive wound and died 11 days later. After his death, Catherine de Medici ousted Diane and made the castle her favorite residence. During WWI the château was used as a military hospital. During WWII it was the point of entry to Free France from Occupied France. The family that owned the castle smuggled many people from Nazi Occupied France to Free France. Free France wasn't really free since it was under control of Pétain's Vichy government. Eventually, the structure was occupied by the Germans. 

We visited Chambord, the largest of all the châteaux. It was built for Francis I as a hunting lodge. There are 200 some odd chimneys for 365 fireplaces.

Although the exact identity of the architect is unknown the influence of Leonardo da Vinci is apparent throughout the castle and especially in the famous double helix staircase. It’s possible for two people to use the staircase at the same time and never meet each other. Francis I admired the work of da Vinci and invited him to the French court as “premier painter, architect and engineer of the king.” One of the things we noted about Chambord was how sparsely appointed it was. This was partly due to the losses brought by the passing of time. However, the sparseness was very much in keeping with the history of the château. Since the building was impractical as a full-time dwelling, it was sparsely furnished and the king and his court, as many as 2000 people, would bring the necessary furnishing for a hunting trip. Still the rooms were lavish.  Ornamentation is found throughout, even to the downspouts.

A nightly “son et lumière” show tells the history of the castle with sound and light.

Provence Beyond Arles, Part Two

 A bit further from Arles is the Verdon Gorge, a limestone canyon 15 miles long carved into the countryside by the Verdon River. Its sheer walls plunge a half a mile from the rim to the river. A local there told us that every year numerous people stand on the rim and get vertigo and fall to their deaths. 

 

There are several lakes in the canyon where you can rent various kinds of boats. When I took pictures of sailboats there, I never dreamt that someday I'd own a sailboat.

Getting there takes you through Aix-en-Provence, a picturesque town with fountains and beautiful architecture. Fountains anchor the fashionable Cours Marabeau, a tree lined boulevard. Here you can rest at a comfortable café and look at the magnificent façades, courtyards and fanciful entryways of historic mansions.

  

West of Arles is a city that has ties to people all over the world, Nîmes. “What kind of ties?” you ask. Linguistic ties. Weavers in Nîmes produced a sturdy twill fabric known as “serge de Nîmes,” denim, in other words. Blue jeans the world over are made from denim. Nîmes, nestled in the southern part of France, is a city steeped in historical richness. Called Nenmausus by the Romans, it was a regional capitol and home to 50,000 to 60,000 people.

Like so many Roman cities, Nîmes had a huge Amphitheatre that could seat24,000 spectators who came to watch gladiators fight each other and ferocious animals. The ancient ways continue during the Feria de Nîmes when toreadors battle with bulls. 50,000 people consume a great deal of water and Nîmes got its water from a spring 30 miles away. 8 million gallons of water every day flowed over the Pont du Gard. This 3 level bridge was built in the first century and in addition to carrying water it also provided a means to cross the Gard River. At 160 feet tall, it is the tallest of Roman aqueduct/bridges.

Provence is a beautiful part of France and we were so happy to experience it on our first trip outside of Paris.